Whether bias tape or Petersham, the binding is applied with white tacky glue, preferably using a narrow, flat brush, or a wedge-shaped make-up sponge (which can be cut narrower) to keep your fingers clean (if disinclined to do this, spread the glue with your little finger, and keep it crooked well out of the way). Lay the binding over your palm when applying the glue, with a piece of fabric over the shade to protect it (at least, until you have some practice at this). Squirt the glue into a dish (etc.), as applying it from the bottle can result in burps. An accordion applicator helps with this, in which case, apply a thin ribbon of glue and spread it out.

Getting the binding on evenly, all the way around, and of the same width, is the hardest part of this, and I highly recommend marking a glue guideline (here and there) on the face of the shade. I hadn't learned this great trick before making the above shade, and the upper binding ended up much narrower than the lower. Use a very sharp lead or tailor's chalk pencil, whichever is appropriate (invisible markers can show back up, if not washed out), and measure from the top edge of the ring, not the edge of the arc, which shouldn't extend beyond the ring, and should be trimmed away where it does (beveling the arc along the ring makes for a nice smooth edge, but isn't mandatory). Just be sure to keep in mind that if much more than a sliver of trimming is required, you'll end up with a cattywampis shade.

You can measure with a little ruler, or bend a small, rectangular piece of stiff paper at a 45 degree angle, mark the width of the binding, from the crease, on the lower section, then slide the crease along the ring, as you mark the shade (I know this needs a picture, but try it, and you'll see what I mean). The Lamp Shop's how-tos I learned this from say to use a drafting compass, that locks in place, with the pointed arm slid along the ring, and the lead along the face of the shade. I've had problems with this, but you might not.

I apply the glue just to the exterior edge of the binding, then come back and apply it to the edge going 'round the ring. However, bias tape will start curling around on it's own, and applying the glue to the other edge can get a little tricky, especially since it's important not to get any on the outside of the binding. There's a reason I don't spread it across the whole width as I go, but I can't remember what it is without doing it, and will, just as soon as I get the chance. Try it this way, though, and see how it goes for you.

You'll need to make narrow, v-shaped notches in the top-ring binding for the spokes—just be careful not to cut too deep. This should be done after applying the binding to the face of the shade, and before applying the glue, at least, at these points, lest you get it on your scissors (this might just be the reason I don't apply it all the way across). Use your thumb nail (or similarly shaped tool) to tuck the binding up under the ring on the inside, which looks much neater than having it extend down onto the shade. Although lots of shades are done this way, so don't worry about it if this happens—no one's looking on the inside of the shade. Unless you're selling them; in which case, you'll want it as neat as possible (though some wrinkling will be unavoidable, try to get it as smooth as you can).

Neatly flip under the end of the binding at the overlap (in the same direction as the overlap, and as close to inline with it as possible), snipping the corners at an angle, so they don't stick out, and glue it down. This is a good job for paste (or an acid-free glue stick, which is also paste) since it's invisible when dry. Paste or glue stick can also be used to adhere binding to a porous arc material, but won't stick to the rings as well as white glue. And always remember, the binding can be covered with trim if this doesn't go well. It's function is holding the shade together, concealing the rings, and finishing the edge, and it's often not visible on the outside (which means, getting it on straight isn't as critical), with the binding around the wire all that shows. Some people bind their rings with Hug Snug to improve adherence, and in some of the older instructions the arc is sewn to bound rings, both something you might want to experiment with. Making a shade to practice binding on is a very good idea.


Self-Binding